Do the jerk as the Jamaicans do

Many island dishes — from rice and beans to fried plantains — are shared across the Caribbean, but jerk belongs to Jamaica. It began as a way for the Maroons (runaway slaves and their descendants) to preserve wild pork, and evolved into the island's most famous dish.

Some say the term refers to the way the pork (or chicken) is turned over and over — or jerked — as it cooks over a hardwood fire. Others say it comes from the fact that the fork-tender meat is jerked off the bones. Either way, jerk is both a cooking method and a seasoning — a fiery blend of Scotch bonnet peppers, allspice, scallions and thyme.

Jerk blends are available in the supermarket's spice section, but a homemade marinade is far superior and simple to make.

Jerk should be grilled using the indirect method. Here are tips:

• The Jamaican wood of choice, pimento (allspice), is not easy to find in the United States. Maple, pecan and cherry are good substitutes. Don't use hickory or mesquite, whose strong flavors fight the spicy marinade.

• Soak a cup or two of wood chips in water for at least an hour, drain and scatter over the hot charcoal when ready to cook.

• Use plain charcoal briquettes, not the self-starting kind. They burn longer and don't give off as many fumes.

• Set aside about 1⁄2 cup of the marinade to use as a basting sauce.

• JERK MARINADE

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon ground allspice

1 tablespoon dry leaf thyme (not powdered)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

6 garlic cloves, peeled

2 inches fresh ginger, washed and cut into chunks

1⁄2 Scotch bonnet pepper or 3 or more jalapenos, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 small bunch scallions, trimmed and coarsely chopped

1⁄4 cup vegetable oil

1⁄4 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Procedure

Combine all ingredients in a food processor or blender. Process until smooth. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to two weeks. Makes about 11⁄2 cups.

• GRILLED ISLAND-STYLE CHICKEN

A side of black beans and a green salad round out the meal, along with cold beer from the Caribbean or icy glasses of rum punch or limeade (spiked or not).

11⁄2 cups Jerk Marinade (see recipe)

1 (31⁄2-pound) broiler fryer, cut into serving pieces (or 3 pounds breast, leg and thigh pieces)

Procedure

Discard excess fat from chicken and put pieces in a large, self-sealing food storage bag. Pour on 1 cup marinade and rub it in, lifting the skin and pushing marinade under where possible. (If you have sensitive skin, wear rubber gloves.) Seal and refrigerate at least two hours and as long as 24 hours, turning occasionally.

Heat grill to medium-high; oil the grates. Lift chicken from marinade, letting excess drip off (discard marinade). Place on grill and cover. Cook, turning occasionally, until chicken is blackened in spots, about 10 minutes.

Move chicken to a cooler part of the grill. Grill, covered, basting from time to time with remaining 1⁄2 cup marinade, until chicken is cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes more. Makes four servings.

Source: Adapted from "MMMMiami: Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere" by Carole Kotkin and Kathy Martin (Henry Holt, $27.50).

Carole Kotkin is manager of the Ocean Reef Club cooking school and co-author of "Mmmmiami: Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere." Contact Carole Kotkin: ckotkin@MiamiHerald.com.