Dolma takes advantage of harvest's bounty

The origin of dolma — or stuffed — vegetables goes back to the former Ottoman Empire. Dolma is prepared in most Mediterranean countries, in the Middle East, Eastern Europe, the Balkans and North Africa.

The most well known dolma is the wrapped grape leaf or cabbage, which is called yaprak dolma or sarma. Other vegetables known to be stuffed are zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes and peppers. The vegetable is hollowed out and filled with stuffing, which may contain meat, rice or a combination of meat and rice.

This week's recipe takes advantage of the pick of the tomato and pepper harvests. The choice of couscous or quinoa stuffing brings a little twist to the original dolma recipe. Each stuffing option provides enough to fill the four tomatoes and four peppers called for in the recipe — so choose your favorite or feel free to make both stuffings and use the leftovers to fill additional vegetables, or enjoy the stuffing all by itself. The choice is yours.

STUFFED TOMATOES AND BELL PEPPERS

4 medium to large size firm tomatoes

1-1⁄2 teaspoons sugar, divided use

4 medium to large size green bell peppers

For couscous stuffing:

1⁄4 cup olive oil

1⁄2 red onion, diced

1 tablespoon garlic, minced

1⁄2 cup tomato sauce

Kosher salt and ground pepper, to taste

2 cups water

1 teaspoon harissa

1 cup couscous

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1⁄4 cup mint leaves, finely chopped

1⁄4 cup parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts

For quinoa stuffing:

4 tablespoons olive oil

1⁄2 red onion, diced

1⁄2 zucchini, diced

Tomatoes, diced (use the reserved pulp and seeds)

3 cups water (add more if necessary)

Kosher salt, to taste

1 teaspoon curry

1 cup quinoa

1⁄4 cup parsley, finely chopped

1 cup basil leaves, finely chopped

Preparation

Cut off the tops of the tomatoes and scoop out the pulp and seeds. (Reserve the tops for later use.) Do nor discard the pulp or tomato liquids. Add 1⁄4 teaspoon of sugar inside each tomato shell and turn upside down while preparing the stuffing. Dice the pulp and use it for the couscous or quinoa stuffing.

Cut off the tops of the bell peppers. Remove seeds and membranes. Bake the empty peppers for 10 minutes at 350 degrees.

Prepare couscous stuffing: In a deep skillet, heat the oil and sauté the onions. Add the garlic, then the tomato sauce and harissa. Add salt and pepper. As the tomato sauce starts to boil, gradually add the water and cook for 15 minutes over medium heat.

In a large bowl, mix the couscous with the coriander, cinnamon, mint and parsley. Gradually add the hot tomato mixture, stirring with a large spoon until the couscous is fluffy. Ideal fluffiness comes when you get the right amount of sauce and rest in between. Add the pine nuts and mix well together.

Prepare quinoa stuffing: In a shallow pan, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook until soft. Add the zucchini and tomatoes and cook for five minutes. Add the water and bring to a boil. Add the salt and curry. Add the quinoa reduce heat to low. Cook, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the quinoa is fluffy. Add the parsley and basil and mix well. Turn off the heat and transfer the quinoa to a bowl. Mix well and let it rest for 10 minutes.

Filling the tomatoes and peppers: Fill the tomatoes and peppers with couscous or quinoa stuffing (or some of each). Place the reserved tops on the filled tomatoes and peppers and bake for 30 minutes at 350 degrees.

Serve warm. The ideal accompaniment is grilled kebabs or fish.

Salim Ben Mami is head chef and owner of Café Collage restaurant in Oregon House, Calif. Contact him at 530-692-2555 or ccollage@succeed.net. His website is cafecollage.net.