Heavenly souffle

In the game of golf, there are several terms that have important meanings, as there are in any sport. One term I was quick to learn when I first began playing golf was "mulligan," which has a meaning most of us would really like to use in life — even if we don't play golf.

In simple terms, "mulligan" means to do over. If we hit a bad shot, we can take a mulligan and hit it again.

Monday I was invited into the Colusa kitchen of John and Diane Vafis. After retiring from a very successful and fulfilling teaching career of more than 35 years in June 1999, John decided to take a mulligan and start a second career.

John felt led to become more involved in his community and his church. So in 2005, he was ordained as a lay priest in the Episcopalian church.

"The diocese began a program called 'Total Ministry,' which encourages church members to use their God-given gifts to assist the ministry of the church to be more effective, thus reaching the community in ever-expanding terms," John said.

"A team of people assume the duties of the church that they are uniquely qualified to do. This allows church leadership to be free to focus on the ministry-specific needs of both the church and the community," John said.

Between his church duties and working in his garden, John still finds the time to be an excellent cook, and the recipe he shares with us today for "Lemon Souffles with Berries," while perhaps not heaven sent, is truly inspired by John's years of cooking and willingness to experiment with new recipes and new ingredients.

While this delightful recipe has not been in John's cookbook for long, he has made it his own, and it shows. He found it while flipping through the pages of the March issue of Bon Appetit. "As soon as I read through the recipe, I jumped on it knowing that it was exactly what I was looking for. Not too sweet, not too difficult, and yet it really puts smiles on our dinner guests' faces when I serve it," John said.

John has been cooking for more than 45 years, and it shows. Having a Greek background, John is very at ease in the kitchen. He has a very smooth, free-and-easy cooking style.

While the souffles were still in the oven, I asked John what his current cooking focus is.

"Bread. Breads of all kinds. I love the sourdoughs, and every time I make a type of bread and it turns out well, I move on to another type. I believe I enjoy making breads so much because I can share them with so many people, and I can take them almost everywhere," John said.

So if you are planning a dinner party and you need the perfect dessert that is neither too sweet nor too difficult to make, give John's "Lemon Souffles with Berries" a try. I don't believe you will be disappointed.

• Lemon Souffles with berries

Yield: Serves six

Ingredients

6 teaspoons seedless berry jam

24 frozen boysenberries, blackberries or raspberries

2 tablespoons finely grated lemon peel

3⁄4 cup sugar, divided

1 tablespoon cornstarch

3⁄4 cup whole milk

3 large eggs, separated

2 tablespoons (1⁄4 stick) butter

5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Powdered sugar

Putting it together

Preheat over to 400 degrees. Butter six 3⁄4-cup ramekins; coat with sugar. Spoon 1 teaspoon jam and 4 frozen berries into the bottom of each ramekin. Place on baking sheet.

Mash lemon peel and 1⁄2 cup sugar in heavy medium saucepan; whisk in cornstarch, then milk and yolks.

Add 2 tablespoons butter. Bring to boil over medium heat, whisking constantly.

Boil until thick pudding forms, whisking constantly, for about one minute.

Transfer mixture to large bowl; mix in lemon juice. Season to taste with salt.

Using electric mixer, beat egg whites in medium bowl to soft peaks.

Gradually beat in 1⁄4 cup sugar; beat until stiff but not dry.

Fold egg whites into warm lemon pudding. Spoon mixture atop berries; fill to top.

Bake until puffed, set and golden around edges, about 14 minutes.

Sift powdered sugar over the top to taste.

• Cook's note: The souffles can be assembled up to four hours ahead; chill until ready to bake.

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There will be free full-color recipe cards of John Vafis' "Lemon Souffles with Berries" recipe in the lobbies of the Yuba City and Marysville Appeal-Democrat offices today.

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If you or someone you know has a favorite recipe and would be willing to share it, give Michael Reed a call at 749-4720 or e-mail mreed@appeal-democrat.com. He would love to come to your kitchen and meet you.

Until then, hope to see you in your neighbor's kitchen.