Uncorked: Cabs pack a big punch
Cabernet sauvignon may have been born in France, but today it's the quintessential American wine — big and brash, supremely self-confident, a little loud, even rude at times.
Like a big puppy jumping up on you, it can be a bit much sometimes. Especially the cabs from California, which are rich, ripe and warm with alcohol, utterly lacking the subtlety, the finesse of a pinot noir or riesling.
There is, of course, no better combination in the world than a big, bombastic California cab and a New York strip steak grilled until its outside is charred and its inside still almost raw. Red meat and red wine — a healing, rejuvenating combination after a hard week at work.
When a wine is 100 percent cabernet sauvignon, it can take time to age and mellow, but can achieve perfection after four or five years. Soujourn's, for example, is all cab, and it's a powerful, muscular wine with staying power.
Other winemakers try to make cabernet sauvignon more polite by blending in softer grapes. Ridgeline, for example, adds merlot, cabernet franc and malbec. Artesa adds merlot, syrah, petite verdot, malbec and cabernet franc.
Either way, if you ask California winemakers which variety is the favorite, the answer almost always will be cabernet sauvignon.
Highly recommended
2005 Ridgeline Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley: black raspberries and cinnamon; smooth and full-bodied with ripe, round tannins; $40.
2007 Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: oak, spice and black cherries; rich, full-bodied and smooth; $18.
2006 St. Clement Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: black plums and black pepper; rich, smooth and opulent; $36.
Recommended
2006 Festival 34 Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast: black plums and menthol; soft and ripe; ready to drink; $13.
2005 Tangley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: black raspberries and dark espresso; ripe tannins; $22.
2005 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa/Sonoma: black cherries and mocha; rich and ripe; soft tannins; $25.
2005 Marinus Cabernet Sauvignon by Bernardus, Carmel Valley: hint of oak, black cherries and black coffee; rich; $36.
2005 Sojourn Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley: big and muscular with firm tannins and black plum aromas and flavors, long finish; $48.
2006 Charles Krug Cabernet Sauvignon, Yountville/Napa Valley: black cherries and black coffee; soft and round; ripe tannins; $27.
2006 Chanticleer Cabernet Sauvignon, "Morningside Vineyard," Yountville/Napa Valley: blueberries and mocha; big, ripe tannins; powerful; $58.
2006 Napanook, Napa Valley: black cherries and milk chocolate; rich; soft tannins; $37.
2006 Hayman Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: black plums and bittersweet chocolate; rich; ripe tannins; $15.
