Rice Field Day: New varieties must 'wow' diner

New rice varieties have to meet the "wow factor" before going to market, according to researchers at the Rice Experiment Station in Biggs.

Among their many fields of research, scientists at the grower-funded facility develop new varieties of rice that must meet stringent standards before going on store shelves.

At the facility's annual Rice Field Day on Wednesday, scientists explained they are studying and developing conventional, premium and hybrid long-, medium- and short-grain varieties.

The key to good short-grain premium quality, gourmet types of rice is they must appeal to the five senses, according to Virgilio Andaya, a rice breeder who specializes in short-grain and premium varieties.

For sight, the grain needs to be translucent as well as shiny or glossy looking.

Not only must the rice look good, the taste has to be "slightly sweet, not bland or starchy," he said.

Smell is covered by a "subtle aroma." And the texture needs to be tender and sticky.

"It has to be the right texture," Andaya said.

In the hearing test, he said the rice has to meet the "wow factor" — diners must be heard saying "Wow!" when they try it.

"It has to be all or nothing" before the rice can be named and go to market, Andaya said. In other words, if it fails to meet a test for one of the five senses, the rice fails the overall test.

One experimental variety that looks promising still does not have a yield comparable with CalRose, Andaya said.

Another short-grain rice that researchers started developing in 1999 has been grown statewide for five years, and samples have been sent to Japan, he noted. Soon, "it may be considered for shelf release," Andaya said.

Farman Jodari, a breeder specializing in long-grain varieties, said scientists at the station also are developing "soft-cooking, aromatic jasmine, elongating aromatic basmati and conventional long-grain aromatic types adapted to California."

In the United States, jasmine rice is grown in the South because "it is most adapted to warmer regions," Jodari said.

Researchers at the Experiment Station are developing two varieties of jasmine rice they hope will grow well in California. Eight other varieties also are being tested in the Southern breeding program.

There are only "subtle differences" in the varieties, so researchers "are focusing on clear, white grains and cooking texture," Jodari said.

Rice scientists in Biggs experimenting with basmatic rice are focusing on "elongation, aroma and a flaky cooking texture," he said.

"We are continuing to improve the quality of basmati. We're working on increasing growing and yielding levels."

"Basmatic sells for five times the price of regular rice," he noted, adding that makes it an attractive crop to farmers.